A Day in Hwagae: A Summertime Adventure
Nestled in the serene Hadong County, Hwagae is a hidden gem perfect for anyone looking to escape into nature, history, and Korea’s rich tea culture. With its crystal-clear streams, picturesque temples, and authentic tea houses, Hwagae offers a peaceful retreat from the hustle and bustle of city life. In this post, I’ll share how to spend a perfect summer day in Hwagae, combining hiking, great food, and a dip in refreshing waters.
Start the Day Early: Ssanggyesa Temple (쌍계사)
Kick off your day with a visit to what I believe is South Korea’s most beautiful temple: Ssanggyesa Temple. Situated at the base of Jirisan Mountain, this ancient temple is renowned for its stunning architecture, colorful details, and tranquil surroundings. Originally built in 722, the temple is steeped in history and offers visitors a serene space to reflect, meditate, or simply admire the natural beauty around them.
Make sure to arrive early to fully enjoy the peaceful atmosphere before the crowds arrive. Walking through the temple grounds, you’ll be surrounded by lush greenery and the soothing sounds of the nearby stream, which makes it the perfect start to a day of exploring.
Trek Up to Buril Waterfall (불일폭포)
From Ssanggyesa, take a trek up to Buril Waterfall, one of the most beautiful and secluded waterfalls in the region. The hike starts right from the temple, so the two attractions are perfect to combine. The trail is moderate and takes around 90 minutes one way, with plenty of shaded paths and scenic views of Jirisan National Park.
Once you reach the waterfall, you’ll be rewarded with a breathtaking cascade of water flowing into a clear pool below. It’s an ideal spot to take a break, enjoy the sound of rushing water, and soak in the beauty of nature. Don’t forget to pack water and snacks for the trek!
Lunch at Cheongwoon Sikdong (청운식당)
After your hike, it’s time to refuel with a delicious lunch at Cheongwoon Sikdong, a local favorite that might just be my favorite restaurant in the whole country! This charming restaurant, with its kind staff and cozy ambiance, offers some of the most flavorful Korean dishes I’ve ever had.
You absolutely have to try the deodeokgui-jeongsik (더덕구이정식), a meal centered around grilled codonopsis root, served with a variety of side dishes. The earthy, smoky flavors of deodeoggui are unique, and the restaurant's dedication to fresh ingredients makes every bite unforgettable.
Address: 330-14 Unsu-ri, Hwagae-myeon, Hadong-gun, Gyeongsangnam-do
A Tea Lover’s Dream: Gamdong (감동)
Next, head to Gamdong, Korea’s oldest tea house, which is run by the producers of the famous Jukro Tea. Stepping into Gamdong feels like stepping into history, as the tea house has been serving traditional teas for generations. The experience here goes beyond just drinking tea—it's about connecting with Korean tea culture and enjoying the simplicity of well-made tea.
The calm, quiet atmosphere makes this the perfect place to relax after your meal and reflect on the morning’s adventures. Whether you’re a tea aficionado or simply enjoy a good cup, visiting Gamdong is a must.
Address: 407-3번지 Yonggang-ri, Hwagae-myeon, Hadong-gun, Gyeongsangnam-do
Afternoon: Swim in the River Near Hadong Tea Museum
Spend the rest of your afternoon soaking up the sun by the river that runs through the valley. There are several good spots to enter the river just downstream from the Hadong Tea Museum. The water is crystal clear, cool, and incredibly refreshing—perfect for a summertime dip.
Swimming in this peaceful environment, surrounded by the valley’s natural beauty, is a great way to unwind and escape the heat of the day. Don’t forget to bring a towel and swimwear!
Dinner: Return to Cheongwoon Sikdong for Pajeon and Makgeolli
On your way back to your accommodation, stop by Cheongwoon Sikdong once again—this time for a lighter dinner of pajeon (Korean savory pancakes) and some local makgeolli (Korean rice wine). This area is famous for its Hwagae Jangteo Makgeolli (화개장터 막걸리), which pairs beautifully with the crispy, flavorful pajeon. Enjoying this simple yet delicious meal is a perfect way to wind down after a full day of exploration.
How to Get to Hwagae
The easiest way to reach Hwagae is by express bus from Seoul Nambu Bus Terminal. The journey takes about 3.5 hours to reach Hwagae Bus Terminal in Hadong County. The express buses are comfortable and efficient, making it a stress-free way to travel.
If you’re leaving Seoul on a weekend, I recommend booking your tickets in advance, as seats can fill up quickly. Once you arrive at Hwagae Bus Terminal, a short taxi ride will take you to your accommodation.
Where to Stay: Ceramics_stay
For tea enthusiasts like myself, staying at Ceramics_stay was a dream come true. This accommodation is located within an actual tea house, run by the family behind my favorite Korean tea brand: Dojae Myeongcha (도재명차). The highlight of staying here is the tea ceremony offered by your hosts, where you can learn more about traditional Korean tea culture and sample their premium teas.
As for the accommodation itself, it was clean, comfortable, and ideally located within walking distance of Hwagae’s main attractions. Whether you're a tea lover or just looking for a cozy place to stay, Ceramics_stay is an unforgettable experience.
Final Thoughts
Hwagae is the perfect destination for those looking to combine nature, culture, and relaxation into one memorable summertime adventure. From the serene Ssanggyesa Temple to the refreshing waters near Hadong Tea Museum, this hidden valley offers a truly unique experience.
Whether you're hiking to Buril Waterfall or sipping tea at Korea's oldest tea house, every moment spent in Hwagae feels like a peaceful escape into another world.
